HomeOur Summer Vacation
First Timers to Desolation Sound
By Sue Jones
Jim and I have been boating for 17 years and have been several places from Olympia to the Canadian Gulf Islands and even to Lund. Then Jim said, “lets head North this year”. I said, “you mean Desolation Sound, the Broughtons”? Yes, was his answer and my brain immediately kicked in – fog, wind, rain, cold, hot, how to provision the boat, water, laundry, fuel, Jim’s schedule, etc. I figured no way will it happen. But Jim was adamant. So with Judi Elfstrom’s guide in hand, I began to prepare for our adventure.
We knew Guthrie’s would be leaving about the same time we were, and we discussed maybe meeting up with them. I secretly hoped we would, because it is always nicer to blaze new territory with someone who knows the area. Not that I didn’t think Jim and I could do it alone. But Guthrie’s have been cruising for 30 years. Their first trip was in a 23 foot boat, with an ice chest and a small child – and, they went to the Broughtons!! Monica made it sound like no big deal, and I was whining about our ice maker.
We cast off on July 23 from Chinook Marina to begin our adventure North. The weather was wonderful, seas calm. After about three days we arrived in Sidney – and guess who was at the customs dock? Allaban II. We each pulled into our respective slips, and discovered Ken and Edie Gordon were also docked in Sidney. They are past members of DesMoines Yacht Club. We stayed at Sidney two days and then it was time to leave. I am not sure if Monica and Bill invited us to cruise with them, or it just happened. Anyway, we were in their wake to Nanaimo. One night in Nanaimo at the reciprocal dock. The next morning we were up early to cross the Strait of Georgia. No Whiskey Gulf activity. We decided to plow right on through to Squirrel Cove – about an 8 hour cruise. We were right on Guthrie’s tail – they were not going to loose us!! We were headed to Desolation!! First timers we were!!
Arrived in Squirrel Cove around 3:30p.m. Bill put out his anchor and we rafted right up to them. No problem. Weather beautiful. At sunset, Bill played the bagpipes. Everyone clapped and cheered, and boat horns honked. I decided right then and there to learn to play the recorder. Then if Bill wasn’t around, I could play at sunset for the boaters.
Monica and Bill told us about the floating bakery – we bought squirrely rolls, cinnamon rolls and bread and a blackberry/apple pie. Yummmy! There was a little lagoon at the end of the cove you could get to when the tide was high. We took our dinghys over to Refuge Cove, and to the Squirrel Cove Grocery, and even did a little kayaking.
While we were discussing the day’s activities, the Watercutter came motoring into the cove. Scott and Kim McFarlane rafted up next to Allaban II. After a rousing welcome and usual boating talk, we all shared a meal of hamburgers. So there we were all cozy together for a night. The next morning Bill and Monica were going to severe the umbilical cord with us and head up into the Broughtons. We were prepared to start our own adventure alone. But then a miracle happened, McFarlanes invited us to cruise with them! I hope Jim and I didn’t have that lost look on our faces, but it was a relief to have someone to cruise with. In fact, Scott and Kim were going to spend another night in Squirrel Cove, but said they would give it up so we could travel together to Roscoe Bay. Of course, I have to come up with a “special payback” for them giving up a second night in Squirrel Cove.
Roscoe Bay – 3rd day in Desolation. Scott put down the anchor, and stern tied the boat to a tree. We rafted up to them. So easy for us, but now stern tying doesn’t look so threatening. I knew we were in trouble when Scott pulled out his 25 pound weights and his TRX. Now I am not one to shirk exercise. I work out 3 or 4 days a week. And, even though you are boating there is no excuse to let the muscles shrink and the flab to take hold. Besides, I wasn’t going to be a whimp. Now, I will admit my arms are like wings, and Scott said I should do more tricep exercises; more repetitions and heavier weights. So he asked if I wanted to try his 25 pound weight – no problem, I can lift 10 pounds with my exercise group. I knew his weight was too heavy when I fell over backwards. When you are rafted next to someone, and someone you don’t know well, it’s always a new adventure.
Black Lake is at the end of Roscoe Bay. I kayaked around the lake while Jim sat on the bank and read his book. It was so quiet and peaceful for both of us!!
Two days in Roscoe Bay – scooting around on McFarlane’s super dinghy, kayaking, reading, eating and of course, exercising. The 5th day we headed to Prideaux Haven and Melanie Cove. An hour from Rosco Bay. Again, same routine – McFarlanes anchor, stern tie, we raft to them, exercise, eat, drink, read, kayak, and knit. How bad can that be?
Melanie Cove is yet another wonderful location in Desolation. We hiked overland from Melanie to Laura Cove, kayaked from one cove to another, and met some friends of McFarlanes. I am sorry I didn’t get to use the rope swing at Laura’s Cove, maybe next time.
We had a crisis while anchored in Melanie Cove. While I was kayaking around one of the little islands I noticed a dog all alone, but quite happy! His owners let him off his leash, and once he experienced freedom he wasn’t about to be leashed again. I told the owners I would get Dinero, McFarlane’s dog. He would make friends with the dog and all would end well. Well it sorta ended that way, but I think Scott grabbed the dog around the neck as Dinero was chasing the dog. The outcome was good, Dinero was a hero, and the husband had to say, “I told you not to let him loose”!!
For 6 days we were on the anchor, (whoops, on the hook). No problem with our water, heads, generator or batteries. We headed to Gorge Harbor Marina and Resort. We are going to be at the dock for one night to give our batteries a good charge, get water, AND EAT OUT AT THE FLOATHOUSE RESTAURANT!!! After all the beautiful little coves we were in, it was hard to accept civilization. But it was nice to have someone else cook the food and bring it to us.
Another night in Gorge Harbor on the hook and then we head to Grace Harbor. Our last destination in Desolation Sound before we head home. The weather is turning nasty; rain and wind. We can’t complain because we have had beautiful weather the entire trip. The trip to Grace Harbor took us three hours and I have to say the water was crummy. We tried a different anchor/rafting method in Grace Harbor – we did a bow to stern raft, with each of us putting out an anchor. Worked really slick, and we didn’t have to do a stern tie. Scott had seen this done before and it really keeps the boats stable. Since this was our last night in Desolation Sound, we made reservations for our “last supper” at the Laughing Oyster Restaurant in Lund. I cannot think of a better place to end your time in Desolation Sound. Scott whisked us over to the restaurant in his super fast dinghy – we had to wear sunglasses and keep our mouths closed for fear of bugs. It took about 15 minutes from Grace Harbor, going 35 MPH.
Grace Harbor will be one of my favorite places and one I hope we will explore more on our next trip to Desolation Sound.
The next day, we anchored in Secret Cove and again did the bow/stern rafting method. The Straits of Georgia awaited us the following day and we began our trip South. Our trip ended with the DMYC rendezvous at Saddlebag Island. That was another first for us, lots of crab and camaraderie. And, what a way to end a great vacation.
So, why am I writing about our vacation?
You may be like us, a little hesitant about going to Desolation Sound by yourselves. Even though you have read all the books, and listened to all the stories. So I wanted to write about our experience and how great of an adventure it turned out to be, and maybe encourage you to take the plunge. I am sorry we waited so long.
It really is nicer to go with someone, or meet up with friends who have been there, and can lead you around. We were so lucky that Bill and Monica Guthrie got us to Desolation Sound and Scott and Kim McFarlane were willing to cruise the rest of Desolation Sound with us. We didn’t really know Scott and Kim, nor they us, and we ended up having so much fun!!
Will we do it again – Yes. There are so many places left to discover in Desolation Sound. But we do need a few new things for the boat before we go again!!